Wixy Soap Essential Oil Guide

Essential Oils for Soap and Cosmetics

"The discussion of essential oils and fragrance oils comes up in every single class that I teach. It's becoming apparent that more knowledge is needed in order to find a quality essential oil in the markets. It's not a simple answer either. 

A student of mine was excited.  She had purchased a 4 oz bottle of essential oil to use in her soap.  It was disheartening to tell her she should not use it.  She was dismayed at first, until I told her the reason why. Read to the end to find out what she and her classmates learned in class that day."  Di Burga

Welcome to the world of essential oils, where nature's best-kept secrets are bottled up. You might have heard the buzz about these potent plant extracts, but understanding their benefits and how to use them properly can transform your beauty regimen. Whether you're a DIY enthusiast or just starting to explore natural alternatives, essential oils offer myriad advantages that go beyond just scent.  

"Essential oils are not just fragrant—they're functional. From promoting hair growth to soothing irritated skin, these tiny bottles pack a powerful punch."

In this article, we'll discuss what essential oils are and how they differ from fragrance oils. With this knowledge, you'll be equipped to select high-quality essential oils. Since essential oils can be a significant investment, grasping the fundamentals is important. Ready to embark on this aromatic journey? Let’s dive in!

What is an essential oil?

Essential oils are highly concentrated plant extracts known for their aromatic and therapeutic properties. They are extracted from various parts of plants such as leaves, flowers, bark, and roots using methods like distillation or cold pressing. Each essential oil carries a unique scent and a range of potential health benefits, making them popular ingredients in natural beauty and wellness products. 

It's important to note that essential oils are extremely potent and should typically be diluted with a carrier oil before applying to skin or hair to avoid irritation. Common carrier oils include coconut oil, jojoba oil, and almond oil, which help to safely deliver the benefits of essential oils without adverse reactions. 

How are essential oils extracted?

The process of making essential oils typically involves several steps to ensure the purity and potency of the final product.

Steam Distillation

One of the most common methods is steam distillation, which is used for many types of plants, including lavender, peppermint, and eucalyptus.

In steam distillation, plant material is placed in a distillation apparatus where steam is introduced. The steam helps to release the essential oils from the plant material. As the steam rises, it carries the essential oils with it. This steam-oil mixture then passes through a cooling system, where it condenses back into a liquid form. The essential oil, being less dense than water, separates and floats on top, allowing it to be collected.

Cold Pressing

Another popular method is cold pressing, which is primarily used for citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and grapefruits. In this process, the fruit peels are mechanically pressed to release the essential oils. The oil is then separated from the juice and other plant materials. Cold pressing is a simpler method but is limited to specific types of plants.

Solvent extraction

Solvent extraction is another technique used for delicate flowers like jasmine and rose, which may be too fragile for steam distillation. In this method, a solvent is used to dissolve the essential oils from the plant material. The mixture is then filtered, and the solvent is evaporated, leaving behind a concentrated essential oil. While this method can produce high-quality oils, it may leave trace amounts of solvent in the final product.

CO2 extraction

CO2 extraction is a more advanced and expensive method that uses carbon dioxide under high pressure and low temperature to extract essential oils. This method is highly efficient and produces pure, high-quality oils without the use of heat or solvents. CO2 extraction is particularly useful for extracting oils from plants that are sensitive to heat or have low oil yields.

Each method of extraction has its own advantages and is chosen based on the type of plant material and the desired quality of the essential oil. Understanding these methods can help consumers make informed choices about the essential oils they use in their hair and skin care routines.

History of Essential Oils

In recent years, the use of essential oils at home in the United States has surged, with stores now widely stocking oils and diffusers. Additionally, their medical applications are on the rise. While this may seem like a new trend, the practice of using essential oils for health and wellness dates back over 20,000 years, with civilizations like the Egyptians, Greeks, and Persians having developed sophisticated techniques. During the Middle Ages, the Catholic Church condemned their use, falsely associating them with witchcraft. However, by the 1600s, essential oils were regaining acceptance, and by the 1800s, they were commonly prescribed for ailments. Today, they are prevalent in homes and hospitals for both minor and serious health issues. Although the U.S. lags behind other countries in medical applications, the awareness and use of essential oils continue to grow.

North American Essential Oil Market

Essential oils sales are soaring and the trend doesn’t look to be slowing down. The market is estimated to reach $9.26 billion by the year 2023, according to Grand View Research Inc.  This is attributable to the rising consumer awareness regarding organic and natural personal care products and food & beverages that has led manufacturers to shift their focus from synthetic to natural products. Essential oils have gained widespread usage across various industries such as medical, spa & relaxation, cleaning agents, food & beverage, and others, serving as substitutes for traditional products.

Essential Oil Benefits

There are many types of essential oils, each offering unique potential benefits. Although specific health benefits aren't scientifically proven, many individuals and medical practices advocate their use for their healing properties when applied to the skin or inhaled. Here are a few popular essential oils and their believed benefits:

  • Lavender: Calming, reduces anxiety, and aids in burn healing
  • Lemongrass: Cleansing, antiviral, and insect repellent
  • Tea Tree: Supports the immune system, and provides anti-fungal and antibacterial properties

These oils can be applied to the skin, used in natural cleaning recipes, diffused in the air, or even added to homemade soaps. Regardless of how you choose to use essential oils, ensure you purchase high-quality, pure oils. Read on to discover how to choose the best oils.

Folded Essential Oils

You've probably seen this type of essential oils, but did you ever ask what it meant?

Folded essential oils go through an extended distillation and concentration process, typically involving fractionating, a low-pressure "re-distillation" that isolates and adjusts the chemical components. This process often removes terpenes, a common practice with citrus oils, which are rich in these compounds and can be reduced without losing their core properties.

While folded essential oils are not ideal for aromatherapy, they are appreciated in other areas for specific reasons. These oils are typically more concentrated and stronger, sometimes considered purer versions of their original plant or fruit. Removing terpenes offers two key advantages: it enhances the oil’s shelf life and reduces phototoxicity, minimizing skin sensitivity to sunlight.

Phototoxicity isn't an issue with soap, as it's a rinse-off product and any essential oils remaining on the skin are negligible. However, in leave-on products like lotions and lip balms, phototoxicity can be a concern. This is why folded essential oils, which have reduced terpenes, are popular in cosmetics. With fewer terpenes, these oils can be safely used in skin and hair care formulations without worrying about sun exposure.

Fragrance Oil vs. Essential Oil

For soap and skincare, there are two primary sources of scent: Fragrance Oils and Essential Oils.

A fragrance oil is a synthetic or natural blend of aromatic compounds designed to mimic specific scents. Unlike essential oils, which are derived from natural plant sources through processes like steam distillation or cold pressing, fragrance oils can be entirely synthetic or a combination of synthetic and natural ingredients. This allows for a wider range of scents, including those that cannot be naturally extracted.

Fragrance oils are typically more stable than essential oils, meaning they can retain their scent for a longer period and are less likely to degrade over time. This makes them particularly useful in products that require a long shelf life.

However, it's important to note that fragrance oils can sometimes contain chemicals that may cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Therefore, it's crucial to conduct a patch test before using products containing fragrance oils on your skin.

Remember, a product might call itself natural, and it might be found in a natural products store, but its scent might be synthetic.  

Determining the difference.  It's not always clear.

Smelling it Out

There's value in using products as natural as your skin. Essential oils offer practical benefits for scenting skincare products; when used in appropriate amounts, they typically don't irritate the skin. Even customers with severe eczema can enjoy our scented bars due to the natural compatibility of the scents. Natural fragrances are also more appealing, as they smell authentic, a quality particularly appreciated by men. Essential oils lack the synthetic bases found in fragrance oils, and smell tests consistently show a preference for their natural aroma.

Deceiving Labels

Labels only include what is required, and the vocabulary can be misleading. Some ingredients may be omitted or renamed to avoid consumer backlash, such as palm oil, which is sometimes hidden under "vegetable oil." The lack of official standards makes it hard to discern truly natural products. However, when it comes to scenting skincare, you can tell a difference: if a soap label lists essential oils, it indicates natural aromatic sources from plants. If it mentions fragrance oils, aromatic oils, or perfume oils, or parfum, it's a fragrance.

Choosing the High-Quality Essential Oils

Here's some tips to ensure the oils you are purchasing are good quality:

  • Watch out for synthetic fragrances: Some oils are marketed like essential oils but are actually synthetic. Ensure the bottle states "100% essential oil" or "pure," and check ingredient lists carefully.
  • Avoid the cheapest options: Extracting essential oils is a time-intensive process that requires special equipment. Therefore, higher prices usually indicate better quality.
  • Smell the oil: If it has an alcohol scent or doesn't match the listed oil, it may be diluted with other substances, indicating lower quality.

Essential oil Packaging: a telltale sign

Essential oils are required to be packaged in small, dark-colored glass bottles. The dark glass, often amber or cobalt blue, helps protect the oils from light exposure, which can degrade their quality and potency over time. They cannot be stored in plastics as the plastic will break down or cause other chemical reactions.

To further preserve the quality of essential oils, many manufacturers include additional packaging elements such as tamper-evident seals and airtight caps. These features help to prevent contamination and oxidation, ensuring that the oils remain fresh and effective for as long as possible.

Learn the Language

Essential oils are typically labeled using the botanical Latin name of the plant, which provides a precise identification of the plant species. This helps ensure clarity and consistency, as common names can vary between regions and languages. The Latin name usually includes the genus and species of the plant, which helps consumers and manufacturers verify the exact source of the essential oil.

It's helpful to learn the Latin names of plants, as this knowledge allows you to better understand ingredient labels and identify the plant sources of oils. Additionally, knowing which part of the plant was used to create the oil is important. For instance, oil from cinnamon bark is of higher quality than that derived from cinnamon leaf, which is often cheaper and indicative of lower quality. 

The Best for Last

The most crucial factor when buying essential oils is knowing your supplier. Choose a trusted supplier who either distills their own products or collaborates closely with distillers. This ensures you're getting a quality product. Don't hesitate to ask questions and familiarize yourself with the supply chain and plant origins of your essential oils.

Remember my story in the beginning?  The student who brought her "essential oil" to class?  It turns out she had bought it from Amazon. It was 4 oz of Vanilla Essential Oil. If it was any other essential oil I would have let her use it in her soap, however this one caught my attention.  

Why did I raise my eyebrows about this essential oil?  It's because there is no such thing as vanilla essential oil. Vanilla only comes as an oleoresin.  So why wasn't it labelled as an Oleoresin?  I could only assume that the people selling it did not know what they are selling.  It was probably a fragrance oil, since it wasn't thicker like the Vanilla oleoresin. It could have been vanilla extract for that matter. At this point, everyone else in the class is wondering what unknown concoction was in this clear glass bottle (another giveaway).  

All my student's were happy to learn about this, even my student that paid the $80 for the vanilla.  An inexpensive lesson in the long run.

As part of my classes, I now include this anecdote.  It hits home for everyone, since everyone buys from Amazon. 

This is why many consumers prefer larger, credible companies. While it can be challenging to find essential oils that meet the high standards of soap-makers, selecting a reliable supplier can alleviate some of that stress.

The most important factor I consider when selecting my essential oils is trust. I've relied on the same supplier for over a decade without any issues, which greatly reduces my stress.

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